Across the Panj River from Afghanistan on the famed Pamir Highway
As the Pamir highway winds it way east through Tajikistan towards China, it spends hundreds of miles jogging alongside the border with Afghanistan, which lies just across the Panj River. Sometimes the distance across the river separating the two countries is as little as 50 meters. The region was divided in this manner quite arbitarily when Tajikistan was under Soviet rule, separating families and communities on opposite sides of the river for generations.
Boy, Village Khuf
Inside a Traditional Pamiri Home
Mother and mother-in-law sit in the central space of a traditional Pamiri Home in Village Khuf, Tajikistan.
Stored Goat Meat, Village Khuf
Goat meat is stored in an open air pantry in a Pamiri house in Village Khuf, Tajikistan.
Grandmother, Village Khuf
Tending To the Animals in Upper Khuf Village (Derdhe), Gorno-Bad
Traditional Pamiri Home With View of Skylight
Here the traditional architecture of the Pamiri Home can be seen in the ceiling. Four concentric square wooden layers, called 'chorkhona' in the Shughni language (for 'four houses), can be seen at the center of the space. The four layers represent the four elements of earth, water, air and fire, the latter being the highest, which is touched first by the rays of the sun. The opening is called a 'rauzan' or 'roetz.'
Pamiri House, Village Derdhe (Lowerr Khuf), Gorno-Badakhshan Aut
A family's home and land in the lower portion of the village of Khuf stands before giant peaks beyond.
Winter Stores in The Pamirs
A man stands in front of a small adobe type dwelling with a supply of hay stacked for winter storage.
Truck Driver, Village Khuf
A man on his way down the valley stops for a moment to say hello.
Potato Harvest 1, Village Khuf, GBAO, Tajikistan
A woman harvests potatoes in the field in front of her home high in the Pamir Mountains, about seven kilometers from the border with Afghanistan.
Potato Harvest 2, Village Khuf, GBAO, Tajikistan
A man harvests potatoes in the field in front of her home high in the Pamir Mountains, about seven kilometers from the border with Afghanistan.
Potato Harvest 3, Village Khuf, GBAO, Tajikistan
A boy harvests potatoes in the field in front of her home high in the Pamir Mountains, about seven kilometers from the border with Afghanistan.
Potato Harvest 4, Village Khuf, GBAO, Tajikistan
A boy harvests potatoes in the field in front of her home high in the Pamir Mountains, about seven kilometers from the border with Afghanistan.
Family Potato Harvest, Village Khuf, GBAO, Tajikistan
Father, son and a friend from the village take a break from harvesting potatoes in the field to pause for a portrait in front of the family's small adobe style home in the Pamir Mountains of Central Asia.
Villagers in Khuf, Along the Pamir Highway, Tajikistan
Two men stop to say hello along their way from the Upper Khuf Village of Derdhe to Lower Khuf.
Mountains Beyond Khuf Village, GBAO, Tajikistan
The towering peaks of the Pamir Range fill the landscape above the small village of Khuf along the Pamir Highway in Tajikistan.
Villagers in Khuf, Along the Pamiir Highway, Tajikistan
A Boy in Khuf Village, GBAO, Tajikistan
A Woman Leads A Cow Home in Khuf Village, GBAO, Tajikistan
Let Me Show You My Apricot Trees
A teacher at the local school in the nearby town of Rushon instructs me to go and visit a nearby house's yard so that I may see-- and create photographs of-- his prized apricot trees.
The Jagged Peaks of the Pamir Mountain Range, GBAO, Tajikistan
New Friends - A Ride Down from Village Khuf With the School Teac
I am fortunate enough to stay in the home of one of the villagers in Khuf who happens to teach mathematics at the local school located just down the mountain about a thirty minute drive away. I catch a ride into Rushon with a vehicle full of men who all teach or work at the school in some capacity.
Firuz Homestay Proprietor Mavluda Juareva Sits In the Yard of He
One of my favorite people in all of Central Asia, I spent numerous very comfortable days and nights receiving her and her family's hospitality.
Grandmother Mavluda of Khidjez Village, Pamirs, Tajikistan
Child, Khidjez Village, Bhartang Valley, Tajikistan
Two-plus hours or so drive east from the town of Rushon on the rugged roads of the Bhartang Valley lies the tiny and incredibly charming (and Hobbit-like) village of Khidjez, where crowds of children play daily beneath the shade of tall trees standing over the village spring.
Child With Huge Smile, Khidjez Village, Bhartang Valley, Tajikis
Meet the Son of the Village Musician in Khidjez, GBAO, Tajikista
LIttle do I know when I walk past this man and his mother standing in front of his home in Khidjez that I will soon experience an evening of local traditional music that I will not soon forget.
The Village Musician of Khidjez, Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Pro
The village musician of Khidjez begins the evening playing keyboards, inviting me to join along on a drum and in song while the television broadcast a Russian program.
The Village Musician of Khidjez 2, Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous P
Many traditional instruments are played throughout the evening.
The Village Musician of Khidjez 3, Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous P
Friends and family also join in.
Truck Driver, Bhartang Valley, Pamir Highway, Tajikistan
The Pamirs of Tajikistan
Giant Peaks rise up on both sides of the Bhartang River.
Car Wash, Bharthang River Valley, GBAO, Tajikistan
A man stops to wash his car along the dusty road that runs the length of the remote Bhartang Valley in the Pamir Range of Tajikistan.
A Giant Above Basid Village, GBAO, Pamirs, Tajikistan
A giant peak rises above the village of Basid in the Bhartang Valley.
Walking His Cow
A man walks his cow home as evening descends on the village of Basid.
Time to Claim the Goats, Tajikistan
Village shepherds take all of the village's goat out to pasture during the daytime and bring them back in the evening. Villagers come out en masse to claim their sheep and bring them home for the night.
Goat Claiming Time, Basid Village, Tajikistan
Boy, Basid Village
Women Cooking Dinner Outdoors in Basid - 1, Pamirs, Tajikistan
Women Cooking Dinner Outdoors in Basid - 2, Pamirs, Tajikistan
Women Cooking Dinner Outdoors in Basid - 3, Pamirs, Tajikistan
Women Cooking Dinner Outdoors in Basid - 4, Pamirs, Tajikistan
Women Cooking Dinner Outdoors in Basid - 5, Pamirs, Tajikistan
Traditional Pamiri Home Architecture and Skylight
Four concentric square wooden layers, called 'chorkhona' in the Shughni language (for 'four houses), make up the center of the roof. The four layers represent the four elements of earth, water, air and fire, the latter being the highest, which is touched first by the rays of the sun. The opening is called 'rauzan'.
The Pamir Mountains of Eastern Tajikistan
Peaks rise up to touch the sky on the trail between Basid and Devlok villages.
The Sleeping Giant of Devlok Village
A huge peak rises up above the tiny village (less than 10 families) of Devlok. Devlok was founded by 10 families in the mid-90's after the Tajik Civil War and has its own hydor-electirc power station that was built by the villagers.
A Woodsman Descends From Devlok Village, Bhartang Valley, Tajiki
Tea With Sultan in the Pamirs
My host in Devlok Village in the Bhartang Valley of Tajikistan, Sultan educates me about the history of the region, speaking Englsih to me that he learned decades ago out of an elementary level textbook. He offers me to stay as long as I like in his incredible home that he has built himself and that is visible in images to come.
Farmer in Devlok Village, GBAO, Tajikistan
Villager in Devlok, Bhartang Valley, Pamirs, Tajikistan
Tajik Hospitality in Devlok, GBAO, Tajikistan
Tea is spread out for me in my lodging for the night in Sultan's home at 3,000 meters elevation. Fresh steamed goats milk accompanies tea and coffee, fresh baked bread, butter, and eggs.
The Pamiri Homestead of Sultan in Devlok Village, GBAO, Tajikist
In the Midst of A Day's Work High in The Pamirs of Tajikistan
A Man and His Castle - 1, Devlok Village, GBAO, Tajikistan
No roads lead to Devlok and Sultan makes the five or so km trip down to the small village of Basid with his donkey 'whenever he needs supplies,' which appears to be every several weeks or so.
A Man and His Castle - 2, Devlok Village, GBAO, Tajikistan
Lunch is Served at 3,000 Meters High in the Pamirs
The Peaks Above Devlok Village, GBAO, Tajikistan
Winter Stores in The Pamirs - 2
Hay is stacked for winter storage in the tiny village of Jizef high in the Pamir Mountains of Tajikistan. Jizef is a couple hour hike off the principal road that runs along the floor of the Bhartang River Valley. No roads lead to it.
Tea is Served At A Small Homestay in Jizef Village Up From the B
Tajik hospitality is tremendous, as can be seen here.